Overnight in a Bedouin Desert Camp

As the cliffs glow copper at dusk you reach a Bedouin camp tucked against a sandstone massif — goat-hair tents, carpets and a fire ring under the open sky.

Dinner is zarb, lamb and vegetables slow-cooked in a sand oven and lifted steaming from the ground. Afterwards the hosts pour cardamom coffee and play the rababa as the desert falls utterly silent and the stars crowd in.